Ode to Karlovy Vary

It was my first visit and for those readers unfamiliar with KVIFF, or why one might want to attend in future, herewith a few random observations, historical notes, and user tips. KVIFF is the largest film festival in Eastern Europe, but obviously can’t compete with top international festivals for the top premieres. What it offers instead is a genial, more relaxed environment in which to see them later – it’s a great place for even critics to catch up with films they’ve missed – and a beatific setting in which to spend a few days.   Over the past 50 years, there have been periodic calls for the festival to relocate to Prague, which on one hand makes some sense and on the other makes as...

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